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H&M's Global Supply Chain Management Sustainability: Factories and Fast Fashion

By: Andrew Hoffman

The H&M case is set immediately after the Rana Plaza collapse in Bangladesh. The case explores questions of who is to blame and how it should be addressed. There is no guarantee that H&M garment…

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  • Publication Date: Feb 8, 2014
  • Discipline: Strategy
  • Product #: W93C73-PDF-ENG

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The H&M case is set immediately after the Rana Plaza collapse in Bangladesh. The case explores questions of who is to blame and how it should be addressed. There is no guarantee that H&M garment manufacturing had not been subcontracted to one of the factories in Rana Plaza, and Helena Helmersson, head of sustainability at H&M, must meet with the CEO, Karl-Johan Persson, to discuss how the company will respond and devise a plan to face the media coverage and public scrutiny of the apparel industry that is sure to follow. This case was written under the supervision of Andrew Hoffman at the University of Michigan by graduate students Marianna Kerppola, Ryan Moody, Likangjin Zheng, and Amaryllia Liu.

Learning Objectives

After reading and discussing this case, students will be able to:

1.) To recognize the impacts of market globalization on businesses and describe key drivers behind the movement of labor to developing economies.

2.) To understand the relationships among the garment workers, factory owners, and retailers in Bangladesh, which ultimately led to the deaths of over 1,100 Bangladeshi workers in the Rana Plaza factory collapse.

3.) To discuss why there is no simple answer to preventing another disaster like the Rana factory collapse and understand why the solution will require changes within the entire industry (businesses), global trade and labor policies (government), and the Western culture of excessive yet price-conscious consumption (consumers).

4.) To develop strategies for a company, like H&M, to integrate social and environmental responsibility into its business model while continuing to maximize shareholder value.

5.) To examine whether the strategies developed for a company, like H&M, can be generalized and applied to other companies in the garment industry or even across other industries.

Feb 8, 2014 (Revised: Sep 30, 2022)

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Geographies:

Bangladesh, United States

Industries:

Apparel industry

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Henry Gustav Molaison: The Curious Case of Patient H.M. 

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On This Page:

Henry Gustav Molaison, known as Patient H.M., is a landmark case study in psychology. After a surgery to alleviate severe epilepsy, which removed large portions of his hippocampus , he was left with anterograde amnesia , unable to form new explicit memories , thus offering crucial insights into the role of the hippocampus in memory formation.
  • Henry Gustav Molaison (often referred to as H.M.) is a famous case of anterograde and retrograde amnesia in psychology.
  • H. M. underwent brain surgery to remove his hippocampus and amygdala to control his seizures. As a result of his surgery, H.M.’s seizures decreased, but he could no longer form new memories or remember the prior 11 years of his life.
  • He lost his ability to form many types of new memories (anterograde amnesia), such as new facts or faces, and the surgery also caused retrograde amnesia as he was able to recall childhood events but lost the ability to recall experiences a few years before his surgery.
  • The case of H.M. and his life-long participation in studies gave researchers valuable insight into how memory functions and is organized in the brain. He is considered one of the most studied medical and psychological history cases.

3d rendered medically accurate illustration of the hippocampus

Who is H.M.?

Henry Gustav Molaison, or “H.M” as he is commonly referred to by psychology and neuroscience textbooks, lost his memory on an operating table in 1953.

For years before his neurosurgery, H.M. suffered from epileptic seizures believed to be caused by a bicycle accident that occurred in his childhood. The seizures started out as minor at age ten, but they developed in severity when H.M. was a teenager.

Continuing to worsen in severity throughout his young adulthood, H.M. was eventually too disabled to work. Throughout this period, treatments continued to turn out unsuccessful, and epilepsy proved a major handicap and strain on H.M.’s quality of life.

And so, at age 27, H.M. agreed to undergo a radical surgery that would involve removing a part of his brain called the hippocampus — the region believed to be the source of his epileptic seizures (Squire, 2009).

For epilepsy patients, brain resection surgery refers to removing small portions of brain tissue responsible for causing seizures. Although resection is still a surgical procedure used today to treat epilepsy, the use of lasers and detailed brain scans help ensure valuable brain regions are not impacted.

In 1953, H.M.’s neurosurgeon did not have these tools, nor was he or the rest of the scientific or medical community fully aware of the true function of the hippocampus and its specific role in memory. In one regard, the surgery was successful, as H.M. did, in fact, experience fewer seizures.

However, family and doctors soon noticed he also suffered from severe amnesia, which persisted well past when he should have recovered. In addition to struggling to remember the years leading up to his surgery, H.M. also had gaps in his memory of the 11 years prior.

Furthermore, he lacked the ability to form new memories — causing him to perpetually live an existence of moment-to-moment forgetfulness for decades to come.

In one famous quote, he famously and somberly described his state as “like waking from a dream…. every day is alone in itself” (Squire et al., 2009).

H.M. soon became a major case study of interest for psychologists and neuroscientists who studied his memory deficits and cognitive abilities to better understand the hippocampus and its function.

When H.M. died on December 2, 2008, at the age of 82, he left behind a lifelong legacy of scientific contribution.

Surgical Procedure

Neurosurgeon William Beecher Scoville performed H.M.’s surgery in Hartford, Connecticut, in August 1953 when H.M. was 27 years old.

During the procedure, Scoville removed parts of H.M.’s temporal lobe which refers to the portion of the brain that sits behind both ears and is associated with auditory and memory processing.

More specifically, the surgery involved what was called a “partial medial temporal lobe resection” (Scoville & Milner, 1957). In this resection, Scoville removed 8 cm of brain tissue from the hippocampus — a seahorse-shaped structure located deep in the temporal lobe .

Bilateral resection of the anterior temporal lobe in patient HM.

Bilateral resection of the anterior temporal lobe in patient HM.

Further research conducted after this removal showed Scoville also probably destroyed the brain structures known as the “uncus” (theorized to play a role in the sense of smell and forming new memories) and the “amygdala” (theorized to play a crucial role in controlling our emotional responses such as fear and sadness).

As previously mentioned, the removal surgery partially reduced H.M.’s seizures; however, he also lost the ability to form new memories.

At the time, Scoville’s experimental procedure had previously only been performed on patients with psychosis, so H.M. was the first epileptic patient and showed no sign of mental illness. In the original case study of H.M., which is discussed in further detail below, nine of Scoville’s patients from this experimental surgery were described.

However, because these patients had disorders such as schizophrenia, their symptoms were not removed after surgery. In this regard, H.M. was the only patient with “clean” amnesia along with no other apparent mental problems.

H.M’s Amnesia

H.M.’s apparent amnesia after waking from surgery presented in multiple forms. For starters, H.M. suffered from retrograde amnesia for the 11-year period prior to his surgery.

Retrograde describes amnesia, where you can’t recall memories that were formed before the event that caused the amnesia. Important to note, current research theorizes that H.M.’s retrograde amnesia was not actually caused by the loss of his hippocampus, but rather from a combination of antiepileptic drugs and frequent seizures prior to his surgery (Shrader 2012).

In contrast, H.M.’s inability to form new memories after his operation, known as anterograde amnesia, was the result of the loss of the hippocampus.

This meant that H.M. could not learn new words, facts, or faces after his surgery, and he would even forget who he was talking to the moment he walked away.

However, H.M. could perform tasks, and he could even perform those tasks easier after practice. This important finding represented a major scientific discovery when it comes to memory and the hippocampus. The memory that H.M. was missing in his life included the recall of facts, life events, and other experiences.

This type of long-term memory is referred to as “explicit” or “ declarative ” memories and they require conscious thinking.

In contrast, H.M.’s ability to improve in tasks after practice (even if he didn’t recall that practice) showed his “implicit” or “ procedural ” memory remained intact (Scoville & Milner, 1957). This type of long-term memory is unconscious, and examples include riding a bike, brushing your teeth, or typing on a keyboard.

Most importantly, after removing his hippocampus, H.M. lost his explicit memory but not his implicit memory — establishing that implicit memory must be controlled by some other area of the brain and not the hippocampus.

After the severity of the side effects of H.M.’s operation became clear, H.M. was referred to neurosurgeon Dr. Wilder Penfield and neuropsychologist Dr. Brenda Milner of Montreal Neurological Institute (MNI) for further testing.

As discussed, H.M. was not the only patient who underwent this experimental surgery, but he was the only non-psychotic patient with such a degree of memory impairment. As a result, he became a major study and interest for Milner and the rest of the scientific community.

Since Penfield and Milner had already been conducting memory experiments on other patients at the time, they quickly realized H.M.’s “dense amnesia, intact intelligence, and precise neurosurgical lesions made him a perfect experimental subject” (Shrader 2012).

Milner continued to conduct cognitive testing on H.M. for the next fifty years, primarily at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT). Her longitudinal case study of H.M.’s amnesia quickly became a sensation and is still one of the most widely-cited psychology studies.

In publishing her work, she protected Henry’s identity by first referring to him as the patient H.M. (Shrader 2012).

In the famous “star tracing task,” Milner tested if H.M.’s procedural memory was affected by the removal of the hippocampus during surgery.

In this task, H.M. had to trace an outline of a star, but he could only trace the star based on the mirrored reflection. H.M. then repeated this task once a day over a period of multiple days.

Over the course of these multiple days, Milner observed that H.M. performed the test faster and with fewer errors after continued practice. Although each time he performed the task, he had no memory of having participated in the task before, his performance improved immensely (Shrader 2012).

As this task showed, H.M. had lost his declarative/explicit memory, but his unconscious procedural/implicit memory remained intact. Given the damage to his hippocampus in surgery, researchers concluded from tasks such as these that the hippocampus must play a role in declarative but not procedural memory.

Therefore, procedural memory must be localized somewhere else in the brain and not in the hippocampus.

H.M’s Legacy

Milner’s and hundreds of other researchers’ work with H.M. established fundamental principles about how memory functions and is organized in the brain.

Without the contribution of H.M. in volunteering the study of his mind to science, our knowledge today regarding the separation of memory function in the brain would certainly not be as strong.

Until H.M.’s watershed surgery, it was not known that the hippocampus was essential for making memories and that if we lost this valuable part of our brain, we would be forced to live only in the moment-to-moment constraints of our short-term memory .

Once this was realized, the findings regarding H.M. were widely publicized so that this operation to remove the hippocampus would never be done again (Shrader 2012).

H.M.’s case study represents a historical time period for neuroscience in which most brain research and findings were the result of brain dissections, lesioning certain sections, and seeing how different experimental procedures impacted different patients.

Therefore, it is paramount we recognize the contribution of patients like H.M., who underwent these dangerous operations in the mid-twentieth century and then went on to allow researchers to study them for the rest of their lives.

Even after his death, H.M. donated his brain to science. Researchers then took his unique brain, froze it, and then in a 53-hour procedure, sliced it into 2,401 slices which were then individually photographed and digitized as a three-dimensional map.

Through this map, H.M.’s brain could be preserved for posterity (Wb et al., 2014). As neuroscience researcher Suzanne Corkin once said it best, “H.M. was a pleasant, engaging, docile man with a keen sense of humor, who knew he had a poor memory but accepted his fate.

There was a man behind the data. Henry often told me that he hoped that research into his condition would help others live better lives. He would have been proud to know how much his tragedy has benefitted science and medicine” (Corkin, 2014).

Corkin, S. (2014). Permanent present tense: The man with no memory and what he taught the world. Penguin Books.

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Scoville, W. B., & Milner, B. (1957). Loss of recent memory after bilateral hippocampal lesions . Journal of neurology, neurosurgery, and psychiatry, 20 (1), 11.

Shrader, J. (2012, January). HM, the man with no memory | Psychology Today. Retrieved from, https://www.psychologytoday.com/us/blog/trouble-in-mind/201201/hm-the-man-no-memory

Squire, L. R. (2009). The legacy of patient H. M. for neuroscience . Neuron, 61 , 6–9.

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Greenwashing: How Difficult It Is to Be Transparent to the Consumer—H&M Case Study

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Greenwashing is considered as misleading consumers regarding the environmental practices of a company or a product or service. This situation frequently occurs in the fashion and textile industry with the emergence of strategies built on sustainable and green messages. Ambiguously used, keywords and strategies cause false marketing messages that end up as greenwashing. Transparency should be provided to communicate about every stage of green businesses. Regarding this background, this chapter documents a lexicon of commonly used green terms in the fashion and textile industry to communicate consumers with clear concepts. It exhibits the interpretation and misinterpretation of green-related terms by consumers. It provides the gap between consumer expectations and information that companies share. It examines the case of H&M’s sustainable actions from its positive and negative aspects and the relevance of the Fashion Revolutions Transparency Index to avoid greenwashing. Finally, it discusses how the consumer can be engaged to build more transparent strategies to prevent greenwashing under six themes by providing examples from Uruguay, Cambodia, Kenya, and Turkey. Emerging economies have the potential to be creative capitals of the world and creating green awareness will help achieve a permanent sustainable practice. Therefore, it is crucial to document existing literature and cases to build efficient and trustworthy strategies for a greener future.

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Kaner, G. (2021). Greenwashing: How Difficult It Is to Be Transparent to the Consumer—H&M Case Study. In: Mukonza, C., Hinson, R.E., Adeola, O., Adisa, I., Mogaji, E., Kirgiz, A.C. (eds) Green Marketing in Emerging Markets. Palgrave Studies of Marketing in Emerging Economies. Palgrave Macmillan, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-74065-8_9

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Mohmad Yazam Sharif

Aditi Agrawal

This paper reviews literature on Human Resource Management and consolidates the work done on its various aspects. The generic and pejorative sides of Human Resource Management have been discussed. Various case studies and their results have been reviewed to critically analyse the various entities that are the building blocks of Human Resource Management. Strategic Human Resource Management as a breakthrough in Human Resource Management has been highlighted while debating its nuances. Abundance of Human Resource Practices drawn from the literature have been examined to debate their universal nature.

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VIDEO

  1. H&M Fast Fashion Case Study

  2. H&M Business Case Study||Success story of a clothing brand

  3. The Case of H.M

  4. Henry Molaison: How Patient HM Changed What We Know About Memory

  5. Case Study Method of Research

  6. Type 2 Diabetes Management Case Study: Maria

COMMENTS

  1. (PDF) H & M Supply Chain management: A case study

    case study. Abstract. By the end of the decade, there are H&M stores in several European countries including. France, where the first H&M store opens 1998 in Paris. COS is offered online in 21 ...

  2. A Detailed Case Study on H&M

    As a part of the Post-Graduation Programme, IIDE's flagship course, 2 students - Shivani Verma & Ritu Bhoite, conducted their thesis project on creating a multi-channel marketing strategy for H&M. This case study is written on the basis of their primary research and hypothetical marketing solution. The case study on H&M will walk you ...

  3. PDF A Case Study of H&M's Strategy and Practices of Corporate ...

    A Case Study of H&M's Strategy and Practices of Corporate Environmental Sustainability Danny C. K. Ho Abstract This study aims to examine the degree to which a large international fashion company—H&M—has improved corporate environmental sustainability using the principle of eco-efficiency and eco-effectiveness. Case study method is

  4. H&M's Global Supply Chain Management Sustainability: Factories and Fast

    The H&M case is set immediately after the Rana Plaza collapse in Bangladesh. The case explores questions of who is to blame and how it should be addressed. There is no guarantee that H&M garment manufacturing had not been subcontracted to one of the factories in Rana Plaza, and Helena Helmersson, head of sustainability at H&M, must meet with the CEO, Karl-Johan Persson, to discuss how the ...

  5. PDF The Key Role of Retail Stores in Fast Fashion Companies: The H&M Case Study

    store format. Section 3 describes the methodology and examines the H&M case study; Sect. 4 contains the discussion of the findings; and, finally, Sect. 5 draws together the study's conclusions. 8.2 Theoretical Background 8.2.1 Fast Fashion Business Model Over the last decade, the emergence of fast fashion has been considered a real

  6. PDF H&M

    H&M has a long tradition of sustainable engagement as part of its company culture and believes in doing the right thing while also remaining profitable. The company believes that it is possible to make a case externally for sustainability, but it is often met with considerable scepticism when trying to work on initiatives that go beyond profit.

  7. PDF THE IMPORTANCE OF STRATEGIC MANAGEMENT A case study of H&M

    The importance of strategic management, Case study of H&M Type of project Thesis Date 27.4.2011 Pages 59+12 Supervisor(s) of study 1st Antti Iire 2nd Anneli Juutilainen Executive organization H&M in Kuopio,Finland Abstract Hennes & Mauritz (H&M) is a 100 billion Sweden company, engaged in designing and retailing of fashion apparel and accessories.

  8. PDF Extreme Business-Models in the Clothing Industry

    Abstract. In the clothing industry firms compete successfully by applying different business-models. H&M and ZARA are two extremes in the clothing industry. H&M's business-model mainly focuses on outsourcing and ZARA's business-model mainly focuses on in-house production. The problem is that the existing theories alone cannot explain why ...

  9. PDF Social media marketing strategy Case: H&M Hennes & Mauritz

    1.2 Case company - H&M H&M says they possess three factors for their success: incentive design, the best qual-ity at best price and efficient logistics. (Mark Tungate, 2005). H & M Hennes & Mauritz AB was founded in Sweden in 1947 and is headquartered in Nasdaq Stockholm. H&M's business idea is to offer fashion and quality at the best

  10. PDF Hennes & Mauritz (H&M), AN HRM CASE STUDY

    In the Annual Report (AR1 2008, p.7), H&M, CEO Rolf Ericsson states that the long term goal is to "Make fashion available to everyone, give the customer a fashion experience that strengthens H&M brand". They also state the goal of a 10-15% increase in the number of stores every year, which would be funded internally (AR1 2008, p.13).

  11. The importance of strategic management : A case study of H&M

    This thesis focused on the strategic management of H&M company. The main research problem was to make an in-depth analysis of its marketing strategy and how to implement it. The main research method was a qualitative research by analyzing their company data, annual reports and making interviews with the manager, staffs and customers in Kuopio ...

  12. A Case Study of H&M's Strategy and Practices of Corporate ...

    This study aims to examine the degree to which a large international fashion company—H&M—has improved corporate environmental sustainability using the principle of eco-efficiency and eco-effectiveness. Case study method is employed and data are...

  13. The Key Role of Retail Stores in Fast Fashion Companies: The H&M Case Study

    The fast fashion company chosen for this case study is the Swedish Hennes & Mauritz AB (H&M) which has been selected for two main reasons: It is one of the leading fast fashion companies in terms of global revenues with 209,921 billion SEK (237,569 mil $), +19% reported in 2014 (Annual Report 2016a ); and.

  14. (PDF) VRIO Framework for H&M's Distinctive Resources & Capabilities

    Word Count [1513 words] ASSIGNMENT 8 References Arrigo, E. (2018). The key role of retail stores in fast fashion companies: The H&M case study. In Contemporary Case Studies on Fashion Production, Marketing and Operations (pp. 121-137). Springer, Singapore. Bini, L., & Bellucci, M. (2020).

  15. Patient H.M. Case Study In Psychology: Henry Gustav Molaison

    H.M's Legacy. Henry Gustav Molaison, known as Patient H.M., is a landmark case study in psychology. After a surgery to alleviate severe epilepsy, which removed large portions of his hippocampus, he was left with anterograde amnesia, unable to form new explicit memories, thus offering crucial insights into the role of the hippocampus in memory ...

  16. Greenwashing: How Difficult It Is to Be Transparent to the Consumer—H&M

    It examines the case of H&M's sustainable actions from its positive and negative aspects and the relevance of the Fashion Revolutions Transparency Index to avoid greenwashing. Finally, it discusses how the consumer can be engaged to build more transparent strategies to prevent greenwashing under six themes by providing examples from Uruguay ...

  17. (PDF) The sustainability claims' impact on the consumer's green

    the objectives of the study that it measures their belief and attitude towards H&M sustainability claims. The experiment took 8 to 10 minutes to complete.

  18. Hennes & Mauritz (H&M), AN HRM CASE STUDY

    The aim of this study was to identify the effect of HRM practices on the performance of small scale business enterprises in Akaki sub city administration. Accordingly, the approach that was used to conduct this research was explanatory research design. In this study four factors have identified and they are recruitment and selection, training ...

  19. Case-Study

    EB3803_Case Material for Assessment 2_SumSem - Free download as PDF File (.pdf), Text File (.txt) or read online for free.